36 Hours in Montreal: Things to Do and See

8 p.m. Dine in a desanctified church

Montreal is teeming with steeples and spires, though Mass attendance in Quebec has dwindled. Many churches have found new life as community spaces and restaurants, including the desanctified St. Joseph’s Church, built in 1861, in the Petite-Bourgogne neighborhood. If the facade impresses you, wait until you walk around to Candide, in the former rectory. Sit at the bar and the industrious, mostly young kitchen staff will happily explain the prix-fixe-only menu, which changes monthly. Fresh, Quebec-produced ingredients shine in dishes like a kohlrabi, bean and yogurt salad, a riot of crisp and creamy textures. The presentation is as fun as it is delicious: For one dessert choice, Le Frère Chasseur cheese, shaved thin on a rotary curler, arrives looking like buttery flower petals (78 Canadian dollars, or about $58, per person).


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