The biggest party in San Miguel de Allende

Every year on the weekend closest to September 29th, San Miguel de Allende celebrates La Alborada, also known as Las Fiestas de San Miguel, in honor of the city's patron saint, Saint Michael the Archangel. The traditions that are held dear and take place over this weekend are deeply tied to San Miguel's identity, with the main events taking place in St. Michael Parish and Jardín Allende in the town square.

In honor of the archangel who holds the highest position, the community gathers in a collective expression of faith and gratitude. The origins of this tradition date back to colonial times, evolving over the centuries as a blend of Indigenous and Catholic beliefs. The modern version of La Alborada, as it is celebrated today, was revived in 1924 by workers at the La Aurora textile factory.

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What looks like a traditional Mexican festival during the day changes quickly after the sun sets. (Find SMA)

The centerpiece of La Alborada is a symbolic re-enactment of the heavenly battle between Saint Michael the Archangel and Lucifer. This epic struggle, rooted in Catholic tradition, depicts Saint Michael as a divine warrior leading the heavenly army against the fallen angel Lucifer in a clash that symbolizes the struggle between good and evil.

On Friday nights, the areas of La Aurora, La Estación and Valle del Maíz become gathering places for enthusiastic visitors. These visitors carry large stars made of colorful paper and lit from within by candles that are a shining tribute to Our Lady of LightAt 1:00 in the morning, all the groups start their spirited walk towards the Jardín, where a crowd awaits with a musical ensemble.

Once everyone has arrived, the town square turns into a battlefield, reflecting Saint Michael's fiery determination to protect the faithful and drive out the forces of darkness. This is a luminous offering to please Saint Michael in the hope that he will grant blessings for the coming year.

The attendees fortified themselves with a drink or two to boost their courage. The Red Cross and fire trucks were parked nearby to keep watch. At midnight, as the clock struck 4:00 a.m., church bells rang out to signal the start of La Alborada.

La Alborada fireworks fightLa Alborada fireworks fight
4 a.m. marked the beginning of the battle that took place between those inside the church and those trying to enter it. (Casa Tres Cervezas)

Rockets began to shoot out from the churchyard, tracing bright streaks across the dark sky before exploding with deafening roars. Most of the missiles were launched directly at the thousands of people gathered in front of the church. There was something primal about this religious fervor, fueled by fire and thunder.

To symbolize Satan's artillery, fireworks are launched from the opposite side of the Jardin towards the church. This turns the square into a dramatic battleground where the crowd is caught in the crossfire. The sheer volume of this seemingly endless barrage of gunfire is very intense in this explosive battle.

At 4:30 a.m., a castle joins the arsenal of Saint Michael. This tall wooden or metal frame, built around a central pole, is covered in rockets. Some of these fireworks spin and shoot fire in all directions, while others ignite gradually, creating a display of shapes, patterns, and colors. The crowd now jumps and dodges around it, avoiding the sparks flying from the structure. There are as many lights on the ground as there are in the sky. When all sides of the castle are ablaze, the circular top is lit and begins to spin rapidly.

The smoke from the fireworks grew thicker and thicker, creating a challenge in itself, creating a dark atmosphere where the biggest concern was not only low visibility or rain of fire, but also lack of oxygen. The thick smoke lingered in the middle large colonial buildingadding to this chaotic and thrilling experience.

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The 90-minute non-stop fireworks display made the city center seem almost mythical. (El Vergel)

At 5:30 a.m., the fireworks finally stop. Good has triumphed. Saint Michael has defeated the forces of darkness, and the crowd applauds, celebrating the good news: a prosperous and blessed year is promised to all. The energetic festivities culminate with the singing of “Las Mañanitas.”

On Sunday, the celebrations continued for those with the stamina to keep up the pace. People gathered again to watch the captivating show of Papantla Flyerwhose aerial dance performances amaze the audience as they spin gracefully from a height. Traditional dancers in traditional attire carry beautiful flower offerings. Adding a unique touch, giant dolls called mojigangas dancing along the street.

The burning of papier-mâché effigies captivates children. As the effigies explode, children fall to the ground like a piñata party, scrambling to grab the hidden goodies. Meanwhile, hundreds of horsemen fill the streets in front of the Parroquia, where a makeshift altar is set up for a special mass and blessing of the horses. A solemn procession carries a statue of St. Michael through the town, stopping briefly at the main churches before finally returning to their home parishes.

As La Alborada approaches, be warned: this is no quiet night in San Miguel de Allende. For the brave, jumping into the action in the town square can be a real adrenaline rush. It’s a chance to join in the fun chaos and stand shoulder to shoulder with locals and fellow thrill seekers.

However, for those who prefer to keep a safe distance, taking a few precautions may be wise. Consider cuddling your pet in a pillow bunker and wearing an extra pair of earplugs. The sheer volume of fireworks means that thick smoke can blanket the city, making breathing a challenge, especially in the Historic Centre. On the plus side, if you manage to get some sleep that night, you’ve earned some bragging rights!

Whether you’re in the thick of it or watching from afar, La Alborada is not for the faint of heart — but it’s certainly a night to remember.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende and an expert in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: [email protected]

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